Eyes! Eyes! Eyes! Joey Maalouf Gave Me A Buildable Eye Makeup Tutorial Using A Single Palette And I'm OBSESSED.
From everyday chic to a sophisticated party-ready look, I'm roughly 87% better at doing my own eye makeup now—and I'm sharing the secrets with you.
Hi friends, I’m so glad you’re here! In a surprising twist (to me, maybe not you), I am not making a proper gift guide this year. Don’t get me wrong; I love a gift guide, and am a competitive gift giver, as I have detailed repeatedly over the years. But I feel like there are lots of amazing ones out there right now, so instead today I’m going to share something that y’all actually asked for: An eye makeup-focused update from my second session with celebrity makeup artist Joey Maalouf!
(As regular readers know, part one—I Paid $$$ For A Makeup Lesson With Joey Maalouf; These Are My 9 Favorite Tips!—is my most-read story ever, and is focused mostly on how I elevated my complexion routine with Joey’s expertise. Everyone was quite clear that a secondary story just on eye makeup was called for, and I thank you for that feedback.)
This time around, I showed up for our session with my skin, cheeks, and eyebrows sorted, and with all of the recommended products and brushes Joey had suggested after our first session. I also came equipped with a new Makeup by Mario Ethereal Eyes Eyeshadow Palette: Moonlight ($68 normally, but 20% off at Sephora through EOD). That is the palette we primarily used for this look, but as Joey always reminds me, you can use these techniques with any products and in any color ways. Don’t get bogged down in not having this exact palette, though I will say it’s an excellent one if you’re looking. Ha.
For this look, we’re using a pretty neutral color palette because it’s a) what I had and b) like training wheels! If you are super comfortable with other colors, go off.
I’m also using a series of brushes, some of which are available, some are just older ones I’ve had for ages. For the most part, I’m working with some mini Laura Mercier brushes that don’t seem to be on the market anymore. But they do have names, so you can buy full-sized versions if you want. Mine are the Ponytail Brush ($34) and the Eye Crease Brush ($30). For some of the more detailed work, I use Charlotte Tilbury’s Eye Smudger Brush ($36), but any brush with similar fluffy/compact bristles will work.
Also, as one last reminder: Joey’s sessions are 30% off (now $525 for a 1-hour video call) if you purchase before December 24th. You don’t have to use it by December 24th, so it could be a great holiday present for your mom, daughter, best friend, or yourself. I’ve now done two—which I paid for, to be clear—and it’s the best thing I’ve spent money on this year, no doubt.
One more thing: Just wanted to share that Jamie Haller’s incredible The Penny Loafer in Leopard Ponyhair ($650) —the ones I wear all the time, that are outrageously soft and chic, the ones that never need any time for breaking in—are back in stock. I wear a 38 in her loafers, which is a size bigger than I normally take flats, but they fit so very well. No issues with my high arch/high instep either. The loafers have been out of stock since October, so this is kind of a big deal. Don’t sleep
Start with a bare lid.
One of the things I love about Joey’s tutorial sessions is that he really meets you where you are. As you might have gathered from the last story on this topic, I’m lazy-adjacent when it comes to makeup. And he knows that I’m not inclined to do tons of prep work, so I didn’t use any primer or have anything on my lids when we started, but that’s just me. If you have something you use and love, by all means, carry on.
Define the eye using a narrow fluffy brush + EM5/matte beige gray.
Dip your brush in the lighter color you’re using, tap off any excess, and start to define your crease, using a circular motion (for a better blend out). Concentrate the shadow from the center of your crease (meaning, your lid, above your pupil) to the outer corner of your eyes. Don’t use a big windshield swiping motion across the crease, because we don’t want much color on the inner eye. By emphasizing the outer corner, it will make your eyes look bigger, which is always what I want.
You also want to connect the crease down to the outer corner of your eye, which I always think of it these shapes: < and >. So, along the eye crease, and then zip down and in to the outer corner of your eye.
Don’t go outside the top of your brow
One way to guide yourself for placement is to lay your brush on your face, from the corner of your eye to the outer corner of your eyebrow. Don’t go outside that area, because you’ll have to clean up later.
At every step you could be done.
We could be finished here, for a daytime look. If you want to transition from this more daytime-friendly look into something that’s right for cocktails, keep going, and don’t put on your mascara until you’re done building your shadow.
But going back: For daytime, you’d just use this one eyeshadow, and then you’d curl your lashes and finish with your favorite mascara. I like Surratt Beauty’s Relevee Lash Curler ($36) and used Tower 28 Beauty’s MakeWaves Lengthening + Volumizing Mascara ($20) here.
Oh, and Joey sait to wiggle the mascara brush at the base of your lashes for more oomph!
Build depth with a smaller, compact brush and EM3 Matte Mauve Brown
As per usual, bounce your brush in the shadow, tap off the excess, and then place a small amount in the outer corner of the eye, in the crease, down to the outer corner of your eye. You know, in a sideways V shape… like < > so. You also are going to place a tiny bit of shadow on the inside crease, from the inner corner to just before your iris begins.
Do not place this deeper shadow above your iris. We want that negative space for later! Then you can take a fluffy brush (the same one from before) to blend it more if you want.
Reminder: At every step you could be done. You could call it a day, add mascara, and be done with it. Or you can keep going!
Tightline the outer quarter of your waterline.
I like Charlotte Tilbury’s Rock N Roll Kohl ($29) or Hourglass’s Voyeur Waterproof Gel Eyeliner ($28) for this, as the products are gentle and stay put. Lining here amplifies the look of your lashes Joey says.
Add a touch of shimmer to the center of the lid with EM6 Shimmering Bronzey Gold.
Using your fingertip (ring finger is good), tap the color you want and then press the slightly shimmering shadow onto the center of your lid, in that negative space that we left when we were applying the EM3 Matte Mauve Brown. See how it’s all playing together here? Isn’t that fun? This is how we build dimension and depth, apparently! The EM6 Shimmering Bronzey Gold can, and should, touch your lashline, because you don’t have liner there or a lot of mascara. But also don’t go too high; slightly underneath the crease, where we left that negative space. “It makes your face look like good lighting is following you.
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For extra interest, add an additional hint of shimmer to the inner corner of your eye with a shade like EM2 Shimmering Opal. Use your pinky to place it.
“Fingers are best for placing shimmer; I don’t care what anybody says,” Joey said. He also says to be careful and not overdo it. You can always add more. This little pop of pale shimmer in the inner corner of your eye will again lighten things up and make your eyes look bigger. This isn’t precise or fussy; you can play with the placement.
Again, another reminder: At every step you could be done. This could be it! However, if you want to go like…10% more smokey, carry on.
Add a touch more depth and smokey with EM8 Cool Sating Gray
Using that same Charlotte Tilbury denser brush, add some of the slightly darker shade in a similar place to where you’d draw winged eyeliner. All of this should be happening just in the outer third of your eye, going from the lashline up to the crease, in almost a tiny triangle.
The effect is magical and understated and thoughtful and softer.
And if you’re done here, then do the mascara steps mentioned above!
Okay friends, that’s it for now. If you want to follow me on @hillarykerr, I’d love it. And if you have anything to say or ask (preferably nothing terribly mean), please drop me a note either via DM or in the comments below.
As always, thank you for taking the time to read this post. I’m truly so glad you’re here. If you like what you’re reading, please consider sharing this newsletter. (And if you have the time to like it, that would mean a lot to me!) All products mentioned are independently chosen, and some may be affiliate links. Your support is appreciated.
Well this is convenient: I just got this palette!
This was so helpful! Saving to refer to later! Thank you for sharing.