The 11 Things in L.A. I Always Want to Eat
From the best burritos to the chocolate cake that I dream about, these are a few of my favorite things.
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Food is, and always will be, my love language. Whether it’s making the world’s easiest and coziest tomato-butter pasta sauce or ordering a heavenly slice of chocolate sheet cake for dessert, there is little I adore more than excellent food. So it’s probably no surprise that I’m the person in my extended friend group who historically gets lots of questions about what to make, where to eat, and what to order. While I’ve covered a few of my go-to unfuckupable recipes in this newsletter, I’ve never shared my L.A. food essentials—until now.
This list is comprised of specific items at specific restaurants that I think about on a regular basis—the things I’d order if I only had one day in L.A. to eat all my favorite things. If you’re looking for a recommendation for the hardest reservation in town, the hottest place to be spotted, or the chicest tasting menu, I regret to inform you that this list isn’t for you. However, if you do like to consort with things that are unquestionably delicious, then I have just what you might be looking for.
Order: con todos burritos + flour tortillas
The first time I drove to El Monte to visit the Michelin-starred, Jonathan Gold–beloved, KCRW Golden Tortilla trophy–winning spot, I was deeply excited, to the point of being nervous because things this beloved rarely live up to the hype. I shouldn’t have been concerned. The slim burritos de birria are legendary for a reason. Petite in size, outrageously delicious in taste, and wrapped in truly the best flour tortilla I have ever tasted, they were more than worth the 30+-minute drive from my Eastside home. There are only six burrito options on the menu—I personally love the classic birria and the con todo, with birria, cheese, and beans—but every single bite is perfect.
These days, there are more ways to experience Burritos La Palma outside a drive to El Monte, including a Boyle Heights storefront, the option to order via Postmates (depending on your location), and frozen ones both locally through Wine + Eggs and nationwide via Goldbelly. My one request is that you also get a package of tortillas to go if possible; I promise you won’t regret it.
Order: papa sandwich
Despite living in New York in my early to mid-20s and very much loving deli culture, I somehow never tried pastrami until I moved to L.A. Odd, I know. But shortly after setting up here, I started working my way through every pastrami-and-coleslaw sandwich in town, until I met my very favorite one: the Papa sandwich from Daughter’s Deli.
With perfect rye bread, not too mayo-y coleslaw salad, swiss cheese, homemade Russian dressing, and hot pastrami, it’s the most delectable sandwich I have ever tasted. The pastrami is simply sensational on every level, no surprise given the owner’s pedigree. (Trisha Langer is the granddaughter of Al and Jean Langer, who founded—you guessed it—the legendary Langer’s Deli.) When you order, if you’re lucky, the black-and-white cookies will be available too. Don’t skip; they’re divine.
Order: nam khao tod salad + Panang neua + extra roti if you can
Of all the restaurants I have ordered from and dined at in Los Angeles, there are few I’ve returned to more than Night + Market (specifically the West Hollywood and Silver Lake outposts). The food is modern and unpretentious, not to mention knock-your-socks-off flavorful and fun.
My two essential dishes are the crispy rice salad and the Panang neua, which is a short rib coconut curry, served with the most addictive roti ever. (They also used to have a chopped salad that I still dream of that involved bok choy, napa cabbage, fried shallots, and a peanut brittle that was truly unparalleled. If it ever comes back, you need to get it.)
Order: beef and pickle tacos + pork rib tacos
There are zillions of tacos spots around L.A. that are worth mentioning—the fish tacos at Tacos Delta, shrimp tacos at Mariscos Jalisco, beef birria at Teddy’s Red Tacos and Tacos y Birria La Unica, potato tacos at Los Dorados LA—but I have a soft spot for the very white-girl beef and pickle tacos at Escuela.
Okay, so it’s basically a crispy cheeseburger taco, but the simple combo of ground beef, generous amounts of dill pickle, and cheddar cheese in a crunchy shell is simply too delectable to not dream about. Plus, they also have a marvelous pork rib taco, amazing elote, a wonderful little gem salad, and of course, lovely guacamole and chips.
Order: chocolate olive oil cake + artichoke salad
If I could only have one dessert for the rest of my life, there’s no question it would be the olive oil chocolate cake from Pizzana. I truly wouldn’t change a thing. The cake itself is an extraordinarily soft and highly chocolate sheet cake, and it’s topped with perfect, rich, chocolate frosting. It’s the most elevated iteration of a simple chocolate cake I’ve ever had. I dream about it. I think I could eat an entire sheet of it. And yes, I’ve had every chocolate cake in Los Angeles; there are other versions that are wonderful, but nothing truly holds a candle to this one.
Of course, you cannot simply order dessert alone! If I were you, I’d also get the beautifully executed artichoke salad, which is mostly lightly fried bits of artichoke in a lemon-cheese–pine nut drizzle, and either the carnivoro or the cacio e pepe pizza. Or both. You could absolutely do both.
Order: fish sandwich
There are fish people, and then there’s me: a person who eats fish but very selectively. Meaning: I prefer fish that don’t taste super fish-forward, and you will never catch me with a sardine even if my life depended on it. Yet despite being fish-specific, as I like to think of it, I dream about the fried fish sandwich from Little Fish. When I say this is a change-your-life fish sandwich, I mean it. Perfectly crispy, it arrives loaded with pickles, topped with cheese, and on a soft, pillowy bun that’s so cozy you want to curl up and take a nap in it.
The geniuses behind Little Fish make lots of other things and do beloved, sold-out pop-ups around L.A., but that perfect sandwich is almost always available on Sundays at Smorgasburg LA in DTLA.
More Must-Have Meals
Petit Trois: the baguette (trust), warm goat cheese salad, omelette petit trois, big mec (dear god), steak frites, chocolate mousse.
Alimento: chicken liver crostone, saffron risotto tots, chopped salad, chili pork ribs, tortellini en brodo, radiatori.
Son of a Gun: caramelized onion dip, lobster roll, shrimp toast, Nashville hot chicken sandwich, country ham and hush puppies, peel and eat shrimp.
Cosa Buona: chopped salad, smokey mozzarella sticks, meatballs, Hawaiiana pizza, chicken alla Milanese.
Lucky Bird: The best fried chicken in all of L.A. Also the best biscuits, period. Order extra biscuits, get Harry’s Berries from the farmers market, buy the best vanilla ice cream you can get your hands on, and then use those biscuits to make strawberry shortcake.
Courage Bagels: sesame toasted with cream cheese and tomatoes.
Yuca’s: carnitas tortas, carnitas tacos, cheeseburger.
Cassell’s Hamburgers: patty melt, classic cheeseburger, wedge salad, cobb salad, onion rings, chocolate shake.
On My List: (places I will try if I ever get around to eating indoors again)
Mother Wolf, Little Coyote, Saffy’s, Pijja Palace, Pizzeria Bianco, Horses, Moo’s Craft Barbecue, Hotville Chicken
PS: For anyone who was interested in the wildly comfy spaghetti-strap onesie I was wearing last year—I LOVE HER SO MUCH—it’s back in stock in more sizes right now. I have a slightly different green version than the Hot Shot Onesie ($70) in Green Smoke, but this colorway is pretty close. I also bought the black version, which is currently en route. Mine is a small, and I cannot say enough good things about it. It’s the thing I’m desperate to wear after I get home from work and the piece I want to lounge around in all weekend. Stylistically, it’s the least me thing I’ve ever owned or worn, but what can I say? The heart works in mysterious ways.
As always, thank you for being here, and thank you for sticking around. If you have any questions or concerns, or want me to touch on any topics in particular, I’m all ears. Leave a comment on Hi Everyone’s Bulletin or DM me on Instagram—I’m @hillarykerr—my inbox is always open!